Looking for a trip of the beaten tourist track? A recent vacation day found us meandering along the byways of the Elah Valley of Biblical fame. This is where David met Goliath. We, on the other hand spent the day cycling, visiting an archaeological dig, a furniture factory, a microbrewery, and sampling some wine straight from a local vineyard. Sounds like fun? It was!
We started our day with a bike ride leaving from Moshav Zafririm. Uri, the proprieter of Trailhead, rents bicycles by the hour or by the day and is a fount of information about the area. He provided us with excellent, well-maintained mountain bikes and helmets, and also gave us maps, water, and recommendations suited to our level of expertise and fitness. Rides range from easy 45-minute rides, to more strenuous half and full day outings. Pedaling along paved back roads that are almost car-free, is an unmitigated pleasure. Depending on the time of year, you will be greeted by undulating fields of wheat, grapes ripening on the vine, fields of wildflowers, and soaring birds. We enjoyed the spring weather, with the smells of freshly cut hay filling the air.
Riding in the Elah Valley you will encounter road signs directing you to various archaeological sites. If you choose, your bike route can include one of them providing an interesting interlude, and well deserved break from pedaling. The ancient village of Etri, for example, is easily accessed from one of the shorter bike trails. Etri was home to four ritual baths (mikvaot), a synagogue, and a wine press and was destroyed by the Romans more than 1900 years ago during the Bar Kochba revolt. Several other digs such as Burgin and Midras offer interesting archaeological digs as well and can be reached by car if you choose to skip the bike ride, or prefer to do it after you finish your ride.
After completing our bike ride, and partaking in refreshments provided by Uri, a refreshing popsicle and dates, along with cold water, we made our way up the steps to the Kakadu showroom located in the same building as Uri’s bikes. Kakadu defies easy categories. Aaron and Revital, the owners and artists, make colorful wooden furniture, household furnishings ranging from trays to candlesticks, wooden carpets (yes you read correctly) and jewelry as well. Their unique one of a kind designs are delightful flights of fancy. This is a great place to shop for souvenirs and gifts , and the price range and choice is wide. Your purchases can be shipped home if you prefer.
After having our fill of shopping, we crossed the road to the village of Srigim, home of the famous Srigim Brewery. The microbrewery is located in a small commercial center to the right of the first traffic circle. Open for tours Sunday thru Thursday, and as a pub on the weekends, the owners and brewmeisters are friendly and welcoming, eager to talk about each of their seven special brews, which run the gamut from light wheat beers to dark porters. Several of their beers are familiar, classic European style, and a few are more unique and adventuresome using local spices and flavors such as coriander and orange. We quenched our thirst with delicious drafts, and bought some bottles to take home as well.
As you leave the brewery, look around and take in the rolling vineyards. This is the hint to lead you to your next stop of the day, a visit to a winery. Choosing between two boutique wineries the Elah Valley winery and the smaller Yaffo winery can be tough, but why choose? You can visit both as they are located in close proximity, and not more than a five minute drive from each other. Call ahead to arrange your visit to these wineries. Although they welcome visitors, the staff is not always available to show you around and greet you, unless you have booked a time in advance. In Elah Valley and Yaffo wineries, a taste or two of wine is free, but if you wish to have a full tasting, often with tasty munchies on the side, there will be a fee. This can often offset by buying a bottle or two to take home. This is just what we did at Yaffo winery where we enjoyed sitting at red checked covered tables overlooking the vineyards. For a moment there we thought we were in Bordeaux!
Spending the day in the Elah valley, a mere forty minutes from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, allows one a glimpse of Israel that many tourists miss. The back roads and byways are rich in history, scenery, and adventure. Give it a try!
